Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Vogue 1367 - Blue silk crepe de chine blouse

I'm usually the last person to switch over to fall sewing every year. August is so hot around here and I'm never ready to start thinking about making cool weather garments. However, what little enthusiasm I had for making maternity clothing has completely evaporated and I'm wanting to make some things I can wear after this baby is born in October. I always nurse my kiddos for the first year so will need my clothing somewhat unfitted on the top. A silk blouse was of course my first thought because I seriously love them and all the other ones I've made will be too snug.


The fabric is a silk crepe de chine by Thakoon from Mood Fabrics that is unfortunately now sold out. He's listed as "famous designer" on their website, and here are a few other of his crepe de chines. I love to use this type of fabric for blouses. It's the perfect weight, not too thin, and flows nicely about the body. It's also not a slippery fabric to work with, you just have to go slow and take your time. I washed and dried it prior to cutting like I usually do and didn't notice any fading. The pattern I used is Vogue 1367, a Rebecca Taylor pattern that I loved the construction lines of. It is not maternity but fits over my baby bump because it's meant to be loose-fitting. I do NOT plan to wear this until after the baby is born, though. The side view isn't too flattering.


See what I mean? The hemline turned out looking a bit different then the pattern line drawing. The front is 3 to 4 inches shorter then the back and the hems do not have the rounded-off square sides as drawn. I don't mind the differences, though. It looks just like the example photo. I wouldn't rate this pattern as particularly easy. There are plenty of fiddly bits to it - lots of gathering, a bias neckband, topstitching, sleeves with continuous lap sewn into thin cuffs, and a 5/8" double folded finish to the curved hems.


Dressform pictures:


I was nervous that the bias edges of the yokes would stretch out while I was stitching them, particularly because I wanted to use french seams. To combat this I used a trick I haven't utilized in a long time - I starched them. This made the fabric stiff and retain the shape of the pattern piece while I worked with it. After the blouse was complete I washed it to remove the starch. It worked perfectly and there's no puckering or rippling along those seams. I left off the topstitching along the tops of the sleeves since I always iron the armhole seams toward the sleeves.


Here at the inside you can see the french seams I used throughout the blouse, including the armhole seams. With this thin fabric and bias edges I didn't want to use an overlocking stitch to finish off the fraying edges. I had to be careful while topstitching from the outside so that it caught just the top edge of the french seam.


I couldn't use french seams for the sides because of the double curved hemline. After stitching the seams I pressed the edges open, folded the raw edges in again and topstitched. It's not visible because of the business of the fabric. I put a little dot of fray-check at the bottom of the sides to hopefully prevent the fabric from any strain when it's being put on or taken off.


Here's the example picture:


I like the pants a lot too and may get around to them later this fall. I'm thrilled to add this silk blouse to my collection, of which there will definitely be more. Anyone else thinking toward fall already?

34 comments:

  1. This is really cute!

    I am ready to plan out my fall wardrobe now. I think I have about 3 more things I'm going to sew for summer and then it's on to pants, blazers and long sleeved tops.

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    1. Thanks Mrs. Smith! I wish I was more of a planner - it's usually just a haphazard mashup of whatever I'm feeling at the moment.

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  2. Beautiful blouse! The fabric you chose is perfect, and great execution, as usual!

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  3. Super cute!!! Perfect for Texas through the fall!

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    1. Yep, I love the silk in the fall around here. Just enough for the mild coolness we have. Thanks Bluesunday!

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  4. Great blouse. I love the colors on you.

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  5. Wow! This is simple, yet beautiful. You are such an inspiration Amanda! I love to see what you sew.

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  6. Such a pretty top. No, I am not thinking fall at all, I still have too many summer projects and some might transition to early fall.

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    1. Thanks Lori, I am only thinking of fall because that's when I will finally cool off. This baby is making me so hot this time around!!!

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  7. Can't believe you are already thinking of fall!! But whatever, this is a beautiful blouse that I think you will wear loads come autumn.

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    1. Well, only because I'll be done with maternity clothing and I want to make stuff I will wear for longer then 9 months. Thanks Manju!

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  8. What a gorgeous blouse! And you look so pretty. Hope all is going well in this summer heat!

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    1. Thank you Coco! Gosh I'm just SO HOT this time around. I'm not coping well and doing too much complaining I'm afraid. My poor family is ready for fall too. ;)

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  9. Impeccable as always! Great use of the beautiful silk fabric.

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  10. Well, I'm thinking fall, but still sewing summer! But I do like to plan ahead. Your blouse is lovely, and I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for some crepe de chine. And thanks for the peek inside - you've given me some good ideas!

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    1. You planners are always one step ahead of me! Thanks Chloe!

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  11. Love this pattern on you, Amanda! Great job as always. —Meg

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  12. Beautiful top! I'm happy to say that i have a couple yards of this fabric in my stash so thanks for the information that it washed and dried well!

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    1. Thanks lmb09! So glad you got some before it sold out!

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  13. You must have been roasting modelling this for us with boots and jeans! Impeccably made as always, I really like the finish on the side seams and the fabric is gorgeous. I don't think this pattern would work for me, but I can really appreciate the design on the right person!

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    1. Yes, I was SOOOOO hot! But I wanted to style it like how I planned to wear it in the fall. Thanks Allison!

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  14. Gorgeous as always. Great job on that top.

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  15. Beautiful job on this. I love the fabric. I remember if I wore it during pregnancy, I never wanted to wear it again so I don't blame you for keeping it till afterward.

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    1. Thanks, Diana, you are so right. Plus this really looks unflattering. I had to hunt through all the photos my husband took to find the few that didn't make me look plain fat.

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  16. I love that style of blouse - in fact, I am wearing something similar (RTW) right now! I'd be afraid of wearing silk with a nursing baby (my first was such a spitter-upper), but if it's washable, then maybe it'll be no different from cotton?! Good luck with the rest of the pregnancy!

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    1. Oh yes, I am definitely prepared to be spit up upon! It is inescapable, and not my favorite part of babyhood. When I have tiny ones I'm always careful not to wear anything that needs dry cleaning, except for winter wool coats because that can't be helped. I'll be making lots of wash and wear garments over the next year, lol.

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  17. Ohhh, SO LOVELY!! This is exquisitely made. Your finishing is immaculately beautiful, thank you so much for the never-ending inspiration!

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