Thursday, January 30, 2014

Peter pan collar blouse in taupe stretch silk charmeuse

Can y'all stand another silk blouse?


I made this one using Mood Fabric's stone stretch silk charmeuse. Originally I picked this fabric to use for a nightgown with some other pretty brown lace. This must have been before I wised to the practice of ordering swatches because the browns didn't match. I thought it would make a great neutral blouse for my wardrobe and it really does go with a number of other garments.


This was my first time using silk charmeuse with stretch and I love the ease of movement. I used the matte side for the body of the blouse because I thought the shiny side might be too fancy for my lifestyle. The shiny side can be seen when I roll the sleeves up slightly and also on the peter pan collar. At the back I used a button and thread loop for closure.


The pattern is Butterick 5817, which I made only a few months ago in a silk crepe de chine. This time around I used the peter pan collar applique. These types of collars are really in style, but I find most of them to be too prim and buttoned up for my taste. This one I liked because it still has a relatively normal rounded neckline. I don't like to feel choked!


I deviated from the instructions by slip-stitching the collar applique to the blouse instead of top-stitching it down. It looks more like a real collar this way. When it came time to stitch the neckbinding down to the blouse on the inside, I only used the machine at the center front and on the back. The rest was slip-stitched down as well. You can see the slight puckering resulting from my hand stitches on the close-ups.


I used french seams throughout except at the center back. After using french seams at the armholes of my white and black polka dotted blouse last month, I decided to try them out again. The sleeves went in without issue, and this will be my go-to method for attaching sleeves in silk blouses from now on.


Here's the blouse with the sleeve hem and bottom hem visible. On my previous blouse from this pattern I noted that the sleeve length was perfect without the need of attaching the cuffs. I didn't even cut them out this time around.



Whew! It's been an extremely frustrating month of sewing for me. I'm so happy to end on a positive note with such a pretty new blouse. You will probably see this pattern made up again a third time. Even though the example blouse on the pattern envelope is kind of ugly IMO, I still think that big bow applique could be really cute in the right fabric.



75 comments:

  1. Your blouse is lovely- inside and outside. . I would have completely passed this pattern by had I not seen this version of yours.

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  2. Your blouse is so lovely and I really like how you handstitched the collar down. Great job.

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  3. Nice styling with your cropped black pants!

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  4. Your finishes are mind-boggling-ly amazing! I only wish I could sew french seams on sleeves like that! And I agree with you on the Peter Pan collar trend...I really want to like it, but I'm afraid the style really doesn't suit me. Yours turned out so wonderfully!

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  5. Lovely! You always inspire me to try a little harder on making the insides look beautiful. I love blouses like this, you look so polished, luxurious, and comfortable, all at once!

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  6. Another beautifully finished piece! Did you just roll up your sleeves? It looks like a nice cuff. :-) I'm going to check out this pattern.

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    1. Yep, just rolled them up. Thanks Jenny!

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  7. You did a fantastic job with the construction. I love the french seams at the armhole. I'm going to have to use that going forward. It's so nice and clean!

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  8. I love a Peter Pan collar when it's not twee. You hit the nail on the head. Pretty pretty pretty.

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    1. Thanks Renee! You're so right, they often look twee.

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  9. Oh yeah, that was brilliant to use the matte for the main body and the shiny for the collar, it's just gorgeous!

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  10. I, too, love the use of matte and shiny sides of the fabric. Your sewing skills are mad!

    Karen

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  11. This is beautiful!! You are right, it will go with many pieces in your wardrobe--a great neutral.

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  12. Какая красивая блузка, вам очень идет :-)

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    1. I don't know what you wrote but I hope it's kind! :)

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  13. I saw that pattern and ran screaming out the store!!! You add a lux fabric and Amazing Amanda strikes again!!!! I luuuuuuuv your blouse. Maybe I'll give that pattern a second look. I have some strech silk charm in my stash!

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    1. Hahaha! Thanks Carol! You should definitely give it a go.

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  14. Butterick should use your blouse for the pattern illustration. How on earth did you see the good in this pattern from that hideous envelope?

    Your blouse is beautiful. You can really see the quality in the fabric and your sewing. I hate Peter Pan collars. Except yours. How did you make a Peter Pan collar cool?

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    1. I needed a simple long sleeve blouse for that crepe de chine I used the first time, and I liked that it had various cup sizes included. Thanks ElleC!

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  15. It is beautiful. How good are you in hand stitching! The neckline is nice too. I don't like it either if it comes higher then I have the feeling that something happened.
    Sometimes you have to think and try to see it in your mind what it will look like.
    Love, Wilma

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    1. Oh haha, like a hickey or something?! Thanks Wilma.

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  16. I love what you've done here, it's so elegant. I have this pattern & I agree, the cover art isn't the most inspiring, they should re-issue it with your versions (with your permission of course)

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    1. Thank you Jennifer. I don't know how the example fabric gets picked. That might be a fun job to have, actually.

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  17. Well I for one hope you will continue your run of silk blouses. This one is gorgeous, I loved the blue one out of Thakoon crepe de chine, and your polka-dotted Rachel Comey blouse is one of my all-time blog favorites. I'm intrigued by the idea of French seams for sleeve attachment but may not be there yet, as I often have to try more than once to get the sleeves in right.

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  18. This is a great pattern for you. I love how the fabric choices change the outcome so drastically. The subtle quality of the peter pan collar is a beautiful result!

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  19. Beautiful - simple and classy. A great way to showcase some fabulous fabric!

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  20. That is perfection in a top. Love it.

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  21. Your top looks amazing, very sophisticated use of both sides of the fabric

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  22. Çok güzel olmuş yine.Harika tek kelimeyle...Kombin de çok güzel.Nerede öğrendiniz bu kadar itinalı ve güzel dikiş dikmeyi? Ellerinize sağlık...

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  23. Gorgeous. What a great job, construction-wise, and what a pretty result. I love the colour too!

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  24. Very elegant and the finish is so professional. I'd wear it anytime!!!

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  25. I love that blouse, fabric and collar. you did an amazing job. I would have never bought this pattern but I think I will give it a go. thanks for sharing

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    1. Awesome! I think it's a great pattern. Thanks for your comment!

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  26. Your sewing skills are exceptional. Beautiful blouse.

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  27. Wow. So beautiful. The shape on the collar is flawless--I'm amazed at your ability to handle such a tricky fabric.

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  28. What a beautiful top. It is so simple, yet very effective.

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  29. It is a very pretty top. Love the collar applique.

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  30. Your clothes are so beautifully finished on the inside that I'm jelous ;) Great work! :D

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  31. As ever, you did a marvellous job constructing and finishing your blouse. It looks sensational with your skinny black pants!

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  32. Hi
    Lovely blouse I had to comment when i saw the collar and i like your tip re the French seams. I will definitely use this in future.

    Linda

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