Thursday, December 12, 2013

Vogue 1323 - Ivory + black polka dotted silk blouse

I'm in love with silk blouses. Seriously. I wish I had a closet full. The only other one currently in my wardrobe is constantly on repeat. When I saw this beautiful ivory and black embroidered dotty crepe de chine at MoodFabrics.com, I knew just what I'd make with it.


I picked Vogue 1323, a Rachel Comey design. I love this pattern so much for the interesting neckline and and front pockets. Any extra volume I can add to the front of my tops is a welcome addition for this small-busted gal. I also wanted to try my hand at a placket which I'd never done before. I chose to use a contrasting black for that part, picking another silk crepe de chine so that the fabric weights would match.


Sewing with crepe de chine isn't difficult, it just takes a little bit of finesse. You've got to go slow and treat it with loving kindness. I had to take lots of breaks while doing the miles of topstitching on the pockets and pocket flaps. The weight of this fabric was perfect for a blouse and isn't see-through with the proper skin-colored undergarments.


I cut a 10 through the shoulders and tapered out to a 12 through the hips - my normal Vogue sizing. Then I added 2.5 inches to the bottom to make it more of a tunic and 5/8" to each side to accommodate the longer length over my hips. I eliminated the hemline slits and curved the sides up a bit. To the back I added darts to give it a little shape and spaced out the gathers along the yoke.


The neckline of this blouse was a complete bear to sew. When I first began this blouse 3 months ago, I mistakenly used a heavier wool sateen for the placket. It looked AWFUL! The bottom of the placket was so bulky that the silk under it was pulling and puckering. Of course I did not notice this until it was completely sewn to the blouse including the slip-stitching on the inside. I considered trashing it in frustration and had to put it aside for awhile. After a week or two I decided to unpick the neckline and ordered another silk crepe de chine in black to remake that area. I interfaced the outer placket and collar and they behaved, but the inside placket facing gave me so much trouble. Silk cut on a curve does not like to behave and seems to grow. Anyway, I persevered, and I'm glad I did.


I haven't made vented cuffs in a really long time and these were kind of fun. For some reason I chose all four-holed buttons so I had to use thread shanks in order to prevent the silk from puckering.


For those areas that I didn't want an embroidered dot I used my seam ripper and carefully removed it. I had to do this whenever the dots were in a seamline, under the cuffs or on the yoke facing. There is a bit of interfacing sewn under each dot, which makes it a little raised off the fabric.


All the insides were sewn with french seams, including the armhole seam. I wouldn't have attempted french seams while setting in a sleeve except that the pattern instructions called for them. What a beautiful finish for a nice blouse! I'll definitely be doing that from now on.


Dressform pictures:


I'm so happy to have this project finally completed and could not be more pleased with the end result.

86 comments:

  1. Yes the fabric is indeed so lovely! And the black placket is just amazing!

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  2. very pretty. your hard work and patience really paid off!

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  3. Fabulous blouse!!! Would have never looked twice at that pattern because I never made it past the pants....Just not into those satin "sweatpants." I really think I might have to get that pattern now. So many possibilities. Even without the pockets it would be a great blouse! Just for a way to make it look a little different ;) Great job. It is a fabulous blouse and you did a great job making it even more fabulous as usual :)

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    1. Thanks Abailey! I can see why you might have overlooked this pattern - the example garment is so busy you can't see any of the details! Those satin sweatpants are a little different but I'll bet they feel amazing on!

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  4. Beautiful blouse and great save on the placket! I've always been scared to sew french seams on set in sleeves.

    Karen

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  5. gorgeous work and I had to laugh when you described removing some of the embroidered dots, I would totally do that too and think I was too fussy the whole time while doing it. Very pretty.

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  6. Beautiful blouse and very impressive armhole french seams! Did you follow a tutorial to do that? I can't quite get my head around it...

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    1. Thanks Jenny! The instructions for the pattern included what to do at the armholes but really, it's just like any other french seam. Thin fabric is a must, though, and I'm not sure it would work on synthetics.

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  7. I have to say this again-- I love this! It's just so cute!

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  8. This shirt is amazing. All that work and attention to detail is clearly evident in the finished item.

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  9. Beautiful and so wearable! It is evident you really took your time with this. Superb finishing.

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  10. It really is lovely. Well done. Lucky you persevered!

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  11. Wow, your sewing is amazing. I love your blouse and all the details are beautiful.

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  12. Your attention to detail and exquisite sewing skills really shine in this blouse. Beautiful work.

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  13. i adore this top!!! i've made my first two silk blouses recently and i'm completely hooked on using silk. so luxe to wear. nice job on your blouse, it's beautiful!

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  14. Really beautiful. Your attention to detail is amazing! Love it inside and out! And what a great eye for pattern picking!

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  15. That is such a beautiful top. Great fabric/pattern pairing!

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  16. What a lovely blouse! Your attention to,detail makes this so gorgeous, I doubt you could find a RTW as beautiful! Great job!

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  17. Oh, it's absolutely lovely! That fabric is really something special!

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  18. Your blouse is so beautiful, it's amazing how those little black dots and the contrast placket make it look so much more interesting than just a plain white blouse

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    1. Thanks Kristy! I could totally use a plain white blouse in my closet, but I always want to sew stuff with more interest.

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  19. I saw your blouse on MSN and simply LOVE it! I'm inspired to try something similar. It's really gorgeous.

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  20. Lovely lovely blouse. I have this pattern in the soon to sew box, your inspiration and the perfect piece of fabric have moved it up the list a notch.

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    1. Yay! I'm sure yours will be wonderful! Thanks!

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  21. Absolutely lovely Amanda! That placket in silk would have outdone me I think!

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    1. Haha, it almost did that to me, which is why I won't be making another one. Thanks!

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  22. What a fantastic job you have made of this. The attention to detail is awesome.

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  23. Beautiful. I have been following your blog for a while and am continually amazed at your technique!

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  24. Love your blouse and the changes you made to it.

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  25. Breathtakingly beautiful, Amanda. bravo to you for persisting and changing that placket fabric. Love the design on you and your stitching is gorgeous.

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  26. This blouse is absolutely gorgeous! You do such a great job with everything you make. Beautiful!

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  27. Wow you did an amazing job on this blouse, that contrast placket looks incredible, definitely worth redoing it to get these results. I really like the drape of the sleeve on this pattern too.

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    1. Thanks Allison! I wasn't sure about those sleeves when I was in the middle of making the blouse and thought I might should have cut them narrower. But they are fine and comfortable so I think I was just being overly picky. So glad to hear you like their drape!

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  28. This blouse is PERFECT!! I love seeing what you make!! Question: where did you learn how to fit patterns? Did you teach yourself?

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    1. Thank you Veronica. I am totally self-taught, and have made countless wadders over the years trying and failing for good fit. Now I always make a muslin first to test out the fit and I hardly ruin any good fabric anymore.

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  29. Gorgeous! You make sewing with silk appear easy!

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    1. Haha, thanks Charry! I'm not scared of it anymore but definitely have to take breaks and put it down for a couple days here and there.

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  30. This blouse turned out beautiful! I'm glad you persevered despite your initial issues with the placket. I really love the dots. It sounds like so much work to remove them in seamlines etc.

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  31. Your armscye French seams are exquisite! There's a reason I never show mine...

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  32. Your blouse is so pretty! that is a lovely design, beautifully sewn and the fabric is exquisite :)

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  33. This is beautiful. The envelope photo led me to believe that this blouse is voluminous, but yours is dainty and feminine.

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  34. I am no where near this level of expertise but I adore this blouse! I cant wait to be able to sew like this!!

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    1. Thanks Nikki! Practice, practice, practice! You'll get there. :)

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  35. What a lovely classic! Quick question, my size is very similar to yours from your reviews, and I wondered if you prefer one pattern company over others. I ask as I am going to order some patterns ( on sale) and don't have a lot of experience with all the different companies. Thanks!

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    1. Thanks Jolsen! I do not favor one pattern company over another for fit as I've found patterns vary wildly even from the same company. I always buy patterns for their design - the more intricate the better - and therefor wholeheartedly love Vogue tons more then the others. My advice is to always make a muslin and perfect your fit before you cut into your fabric. Once you get a good fit with a pattern, make it over and over in different fabrics or with different necklines/sleeve variations.

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  36. Happy new year and congratulations to another lovely project Amanda! I often just visit your blog and always admire what you are making.

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  37. I have just discovered your blog and absolutely love your items. I'll take more time looking around. Thank you for sharing, you would never know that they are not bought from a high end store.

    http://peonynrose.blogspot.com.au/

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