Thursday, October 31, 2013

Hodgepodge Burda - Navy + black plaid boucle jacket w/ leather trim

The navy and black color combo is currently a very popular trend. Even though I still think you shouldn't wear black shoes with a navy dress, I do like them together in fabrics or colorblocked. Which is why, when I spotted this black and almost-navy plaid boucle at Mood Fabrics, I knew I wanted it for something. It's Oscar de la Renta fabric with metallic threads and tiny black sequins, and reminds me somewhat of the fabric used for this dress - also OdlR, and also with sequins.


I decided on jacket 106 from the February 2013 Burda issue, but the quick muslin I made fitted horribly. The no-side-seams detail that I found somewhat interesting turned out to be woefully unflattering. So as not to have to find another similar style jacket and fit that to my body, I used another Burda pattern that I knew to be a perfect fit, 113 from the May 2011 issue, which I made and blogged about here. I transferred the neckline, length of the jacket and sleeves, and binding details, keeping the princess seams of 113.


The black leather was from my stash, from which I have made quite a few garments. This is my sixth garment using leather, and I don't perspire out of nervousness anymore. The only issue I find that gives me any problem is its tendency to stretch too much while being stitched. Usually this is solved by stitching with the fabric side up. Leather can be ironed without issue, and I always use pins IN THE SEAM ALLOWANCE so that the holes they cause aren't visible on the outside. I know other people use clips but I like to use pins and find they hold things more securely then clips.


I paid special attention when cutting the boucle out to match the plaids both horizontally and vertically. I also took special care to make sure they were lined up when stitched together. Oh, I forgot to mention that I underlined each boucle piece with polyester organza. The boucle has a very loose weave and the organza keeps it from fraying uncontrollably. Also, with organza attached, the construction stitches can be seen and removed if need be. Otherwise the thread disappears into the fabric and good luck clipping it out without cutting the fashion fabric.

Dressform pictures:


For the lining I used a black silk Jacquard from Mood Fabrics. Their picture on my screen had a bit of a purple tint, which would have been fine to line this jacket with, but it indeed turned out to be black. I love the fun textural interest it gave the inside. The inner band facings are a wool sateen I got awhile ago from Mood, which has now completely sold out. They were completely interfaced before being stitched together. After the lining was in and all the seam grading had been done, I went around the entire band with needle and thread, stitching in the ditch between the leather/boucle and the sateen/lining. I do like handsewing but that left my thumb really sore.


The last fun detail of this jacket is the oversized snaps used to hold it closed. I'll probably never wear it that way because it somehow ended up a bit too snug, but I like the looks of the tough hardware with so refined a jacket.


There were twelve pieces to the jacket body (it has two-part sleeves). Multiply that by three for the boucle, organza and lining. Add in six multiplied by two for the bands and band facings and that's 48 different pieces of fabric and leather! This jacket was a ton of work! I love it, though, and am excited to incorporate it into my cool-weather wardrobe in both dressy and casual stylings.

70 comments:

  1. Beautiful! I love the leather trim ... takes the jacket to a new level, which can be dressed up or down.

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  2. So pretty! Wasn't it fun sewing the leather?

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    1. Thanks Dorothy! Yes, it was fun sewing with leather again!

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  3. This really works on you! It's demure, but fashion-forward! Lovely!

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  4. Very smart jacket, Amanda! Your clothes are pretty enough to be worn inside out if so desired. The snaps give the jacket an edge while bringing it together (figuratively not literally :) )
    Beautiful as always!

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  5. OH! This looks so classy, elegant and expensive! I love the cardigan cut of this jacket pattern.And, the leather sets it over the top!

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  6. Amazing Amanda Strikes Again!!! I love it when you post!

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  7. love it! and versatile, it would look great styled more casually with black jeans and boots. great fabric choices.

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    1. Thank you Beth! I'm trying to decide if I want to make a blouse to wear under it... But yes, I like the dressed down jeans idea too.

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  8. So beautiful. I have been hankering to make a French jacket. I love the black leather trim.

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  9. very pretty jacket! you are a great seamstress

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  10. Absolutely beautiful! Looks like a navy blue Chanel! :)

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    1. Thanks! That was what I was aiming for!

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  11. This turned out beautifully! But the fabric is even more awesome in person. Great job!!

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    1. Thanks mom! Yeah, the intricacies of the fabric didn't photograph that well.

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  12. Awesome jacket, I love the leather trimmings and the fabric.

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  13. It's a beautiful jacket, very well made and fitted. Very cool!

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  14. Always enjoy seeing what you have made. This is no exception. Beautifully done.

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  15. Love this jacket! So versatile...looks great with your black skirt & will be fantastic with jeans!

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  16. Navy and black are hot! Great job on the jacket, esp the plaid matching. It's like you made 3 or 4 jackets at the same time!

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    1. Thanks June! It did feel like more then one garment!

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  17. Beautiful jacket - if you are every up for it, I would be very interested in a more detailed view of cutting and attaching the leather trim around the jacket. The photos, being at a distance, are hard to see. Thank you for the interesting post.

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    1. Thanks Sewsincere - I will keep your request in mind for the next time I work with leather (which will probably be latter this month!)

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  18. You are just so elegant. I love the simplicity of the cut, it's really lovely!

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  19. Oooh, shiny and pretty! You must promise never to look at my feet, lol, as I always wear black shoes, no matter what color is on the rest of my body.

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    1. Haha! I try to not judge other people's outfits. Thanks Lin!

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  20. This is a real beauty Amanda. I love the leather trim. It makes for a very expensive looking jacket!

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  21. I really like this. A lot of work, but the result is perfect.
    Love, Wilma

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  22. Wow, I have joined the French jacket sewalong and am up to my eyeballs in boucle, lining and quilting thread wondering when it will ever end. And there you are calmly producing this fabulous little number with leather trim, no less. Amazing!

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    1. Thank you Megan! That was a total coincidence - I had no idea there was a French jacket sewalong happening. No wonder I've seen so many of them out in blogosphere lately!

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  23. Beautiful jacket. I really love the leather trim - an inspired idea.

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  24. Oh, your jacket is really sweet, I love the classic cropped shape and the leather trim is inspired! Personally, I really like navy and black worn together too, it's a sophisticated combination :)

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  25. Beautiful like always. The fabric is so pretty.

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  26. 48 pieces?! Holy cow Amanda!
    As always, beautiful work!!

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  27. Gorgeous! I love the leather details!

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  28. Definitely worth the effort! I love this look. It's a nod to the classic Chanel style, but very updated with the V neck and leather trim. Enjoy the cooler weather!

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